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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2004 1:55 am 
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2.0 liter swap
by jason
anybody know exactly what it takes to do the swap from a 1.8 to 2.0 liter. I know you have to use the a1 gti head, and maybe change out the intermediate shaft but not sure. I want to do this swap as long as its not to big a pain in the ass. any help would be great.

Posted on Feb 21, 2000, 10:13 PM
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2.0L swap stuff etc..
by deo read
if your doing a 2.0L tallblock conversion you don't have to change the head!.. in fact the crossflow is better flowing then the stock head..
the cis injectors will fit the electronic injector holes just push them in with the o-rings on and they fit etc..the 2.oL bottom end doesn't need the intermediate shaft clearanced, that i beleive is if you want a stroker crank , or swap a 2.ol crank into a 1.8 block..im playing with that now myself..if your doing a tallblock swap wou need to make a block off plate for the crank case breather ..i made mine out of aluminum plate ..one or 2 of the holes in it u can use to mount the warmup regulator..also you need a freeze out plug or leave the stock crank sensor in place ... if your doing the audi 80 swap you don't have to change the head either just shove your injectors into the intake manifold etc..with the tallblock swa[p you have to add 16mm to the exhaust i did it to my header..etc and the rain gutter my need trimming for the throttle cable....hope that helps..if you want i can take my plate off my block and make a template for ya to just make your own block off plate..

Posted on Feb 22, 2000, 9:25 AM
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83 gti turbo question??? help
by jason
i have an 83 gti that im trying to put together a turbo system for. I have a bae turbo, manifold and downpipe.Just got a saab 900 intercooler. my question is, how do I richen the mixture. I have heard to use an audi turbo fuel press regulator. I play on running 8-10 psi. Is this all I need or do I need diff injectors? Anybody else have this setup.

Posted on Feb 21, 2000, 10:11 PM
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83 turbo
by Evilgtiguy
For more fuel there are a couple of different ways of richening the air/fuel. The Audi pressure regulator is not enough. To do it right you will need an additional injector and a controller, or a boost sensitive switch that will provide additional fuel on boost. If you are going to run 8-10 I would suggest a rebuild on the bottom end and forged pistons. I am doing the same thing as you with my 84 Gti and I am doing the whole motor over from crank to head with forged pistons. I want a bullet-proof motor. The most boost I would run with stock pistons is 8psi depending on the mileage and compression. I have perfect compression and I am still not going to use the cast pistons. Do some research and read up if you have to, I have and I am prepared to spend some good coin to have it done right the first time even if I am not going as big as I had hoped right off the bat. http://members.home.com/mk1gtiguy

Posted on Feb 27, 2000, 12:38 AM
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16V fuel injectors
by Alan Thomson
Can anyone advise me on how I can fit electronic fuel injectors with a fuel rail to a Golf/Rabbit 16V. I will be using the standard inlet manifold and would prefer to use off the shelf parts rather than custom made components if possible. Someone mentioned using bosch 036 injectors before as they have a pipe attached which would reach through the inlet manifold, how would the injectors be secured into the manifold with this setup?

Thanks in advance.

Posted on Feb 21, 2000, 1:51 PM
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by DannyBoy
Mounting a fuel rail and the electronicly controled injectors is the easy part...
You have to change your entire fuel system though.
You need to install a system that eighther has a MAF metering device to indicate to the computer how much fuel to add...

So it would be a good idea to checkout the aftermarket fuel/ignition systems in your case, like SDS.

BTW, If your not planning to go "forced induction" then the performance your gain is minimal.


Posted on Feb 21, 2000, 7:40 PM
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16V Turbo Injectors
by Alan Thomson
Yes, I am planning of going force induction and I have an engine management unit in mind. What I am doing just now is trying to source all the parts I need and one of these is the fuel rail and injectors. I was hopeing that their were off the shelf parts that could be used for the fuel rail and fitting the injectors to the inlet manifold rather than having to get them custom made.


Posted on Feb 22, 2000, 1:48 PM
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by Zach
>> I was hopeing that their were off the shelf parts that could be used for the fuel rail and fitting the injectors to the inlet manifold rather than having to get them custom made. <<

Kinsler Fuel Injection in MI do execellent work and will happily make a rail complete with bungs to attatch it to lower half of manifold. There ## is 248.362.1145


Posted on Feb 27, 2000, 5:47 PM
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by vw16v@020.co.uk
twminduction.com also sells rails,etc
kinsler is pricey when i called them for an ITB setup

Posted on Mar 3, 2000, 11:20 PM
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by Zach
<< twminduction.com also sells rails,etc
kinsler is pricey when i called them for an ITB
setup >>

Well lets just say you get what you pay for. Plus Kinsler's sells fuel rail stock cheaper than anyone.


Posted on Mar 3, 2000, 11:38 PM
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junkyard injectors
by jerry
i'm using 43 lb/hr injectors that are good to around 18lbs of boost. go to the junkyard and open the hood on any 83-84 ford crown vic, lincoln towncar, or mercury marquie with a 302 v8, they have a t-body setup with 2 injectors in the t-body. make sure its a v8 and the numbers on the side of the injector will
be 0 280 150 400. that will do most anyting you want. if you find a 87-88 merkur, they have a brown top injector that is 36lb/hr. the older turbo t-birds have 29 lb/hr(good to 10-12 lbs of boost).
hope this helps.

Posted on Mar 7, 2000, 10:41 PM
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posts? working etc?
by deo read
mummn i wonder if people are away? or trapped in the garage or the message board is messed up..as its been 2 days since a post...mummn
may be this will post
well we'll
see huh?.

Posted on Feb 21, 2000, 10:39 AM
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I'm here,Well...Kinda
by Dolemite
I'm having problems with my PC I'll be back in a few days.

Posted on Feb 23, 2000, 1:54 PM
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Making VWs stop faster: a rear caliper question.
by typ53
I'm installing rear discs on my Mk1 Scirocco. Rather than use the 16V Scirocco calipers (the calipers I have are frozen, of course) I'd like to use the 'new and improved' rear calipers from an A3. I expect I'll have to bend new lines but what about the parking brake cables: will the 16V Scirocco cables work? Are there any other problems with this swap?

Posted on Feb 19, 2000, 9:54 PM
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by Steffen
Yes the Scirocco 16v cables will work, I have a Scirocco II with Golf 16v rear calipers, I used the Golf cables and it worked fine.
You should also install the brake pressure regulator, or you might end up with locked rear wheels during heavy braking.

Posted on Feb 24, 2000, 11:40 AM
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VR6 turbo questions
by Mike Bowden
Does anyone know how much air goes through the stock VR6 heads? And what CFM they are capable of flowing?

Any ideas for daily driver, pump gas turbo configurations that will allow 320hp or better to the crank (want 1:12 power-to-weight in an A2 Jetta that weighs around 3000# - really want 1:10, but anyway)

Anyone know about the pro's/con's of adding extra knock sensors. I saw an ad for a system that retards individual cylinders - it seemed to be a few hundred per cylinder though. I am just way worried about turbo or s-charging this VR6 without having the hot engine management in place to keep pistons from burning and avoiding detonation.

Are the subtractive measures that'll be neccessary, like lowering compression and retard maps going to make it difficult to meet the horsepower target without having it run like a dog at lower RPM?

Posted on Feb 19, 2000, 6:44 AM
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A2 is 3000 lbs?
by Pat
does that A2 Jetta really weigh in at 3000? that seams really high. My A4 Jetta weighs that much. and I thought that the A2 cars were alot lighter.. do you have a huge stereo setup in it or something?


Posted on Feb 28, 2000, 11:44 AM
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A2 weight
by Barry
My 91' Jetta 2 door weighed 2340lbs without me in the car. 3000lbs is inaccurate for any A-2.

Posted on Feb 28, 2000, 3:24 PM
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Again, looking for req'd CFM to achieve 320 HP in VR6...
by Mike Bowden
My A2 4-door automatic was supposedly 2800 pounds.
The VR6 conversion added about 150# to the nose.
'92 Corrado SLC exhaust was used, but main muffler was removed (to allow keeping the frame rail fuel pump as I didn't want to suction out the trunk to use the Corrado fuel tank).
I also added about 150# of sound proofing (Illbruck's loaded vinyl, 1# per square foot).

After talking to Darrell at Techtonics he said he could hunt up what the stocker flows at 28".
More importantly he said the VR6 runs hotter than other VW engines because of the longer exhaust ports that travel from the front cylinders through the head to the exhaust manifold. He suggested supercharging rather than turbos because of the extra thermal load to the engine from the added back-pressure the turbo would introduce. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Z-Engineering is coming out with a higher boost centrifugal supercharger (ZR-2 or R-2). I may wait and see what that does. I'll also look at some other s-charger possibilities, including the Powerdyne American made unit (problem would be having to outsource the electronics mods), and I wonder what it would take to make one from the t-04 compressor wheel and housing from Garrett. It would really be sweet to get one of Turbodyne's Turbo-pac's to hang on the side of the engine and funtion as a supercharger AND have the electric motor to make boost electrically until the motor spins up.

But I still need to figure out how much CFM I'll need to make 320 HP in the VR6 (Darrell thinks the stock head will handle the needed air flow, but warns about the other stuff - like pump gas limits on effective compression).

Posted on Feb 29, 2000, 7:10 PM
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CFM required
by Alan
The following was taken from the book Maximum Boost by Corky Bell, I would strongly recommend it if planning to build a turbocharged engine.

Airflow rate (cfm) = (cid x rpm x 0.5 x Ev) / 1728

Ev is volumetric efficiency of engine
This is for atmospheric pressure ie 1 bar.
If you were running 1 bar boost for example you would need to double it.

Posted on Feb 29, 2000, 7:30 PM
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Dynacharger and Hydracharger
by Mike Bowden
In case anyone's wondered, I was able to find an Eng. Dir. at Garrett. The hydracharger has been shelved because they couldn't find a customer need that justified completing development (and the fluid speed controls and seperate fluid system they were going to use to drive the thing were problems). It was going to be more feasible in larger motored systems like trucks.
The Dynacharger is alive and well but won't work in it's current iteration in gas apps here in the states, and is currently being tested in European pas cars (what the hell is "pas"? He said one in four cars made in Europe are diesel). The temps are lower in Europe, and diesel exhaust temps are lower. The problem is getting the life of the electric motor/generator that sits in between the two halves of the turbo to last. It has to be water cooled, and even though a seperate cooling system helps they still have a ways to go.
In the mean time Turbodyne still markets their Turbo-pac as the only system I've seen that would augment boost before spool-up. I'd be afraid of the cost and pulling alternators and batteries though, but I haven't talked with Turbodyne. The turbo-pac is an electric motor driven T-04 compressor wheel that their web-site says pulls about 1/4 the electricity of a starter motor, and is only on for a couple of seconds until boost develops by the turbo system in a car.

Posted on Feb 19, 2000, 6:23 AM
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Need you help guy's!!!!! Just did a engine-swap....16V-2.0L .... Runs like F'n SH!T
by Dannyboy
I've been posting this same message desperately on other web sites!!! (just incase you see this post somewhere else)

Just finnished a 16V swap for a buddy of mine... The car is a 86 Jetta with CIS-E.. (had a 8v) The 16V engine is out of a 92 Passat.

Ok it's in and starts (take few more cranks than normal) and runs...But like a sack of Chev!!!

7 months ago i did a simular swap in to my car..
86 Jetta with CIS (basic), And the head was from my 1.8 16v GTI, and the rebuilt bottom end is from a 91 Passat... I had to do a bit of rewiring to get a knock sensor on the CIS system... Also I am using the stock CIS Idle-air stabalizer. The Swap on my car turned out great!!!

This is what I though the problem could be, on the 16v swap i'm doing now.... The T-body on the 16v-2.0 out of the passat has no adjustable air bypass valve, Just a large 1/4 inch nipple on the back of the T-body.

The original Hose (when in the Passat) that was on this nipple connects to some sort of diaphram
looking device with a plug on it (so there is no place to plug this into because it's not a full
KE-MOTRONICS SYSTEM like the Passat). if i leave the nipple open it idels VERY smooth but when I blip the throttle it chokes.....as soon as I plug it, it idles like SH!T again...but throttle response is better..!!!

What on earth is going on??? Also when it's idle'n crappy it revs up and down, up, down, up ,down, almost dies.

Soooo, I thought maybe i'll just take the throttlebody off my 1.8-16v intake and slap it on his, just to see how this would work... Same problem happens!!!!!

Please throw any suggestions at me you can..!!!!
I've talk to some local VW-dealerships (mechanics) and they also have no clue...



ps.. sorry for the MEGA long post!!!

Posted on Feb 19, 2000, 5:19 AM
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swap diagnostics
by paul
first you must make sure all of the components match this includes the sensors pacificly the coolant temp sensor for the computer cise-e and motronic look the same but are diffrent .also you should use the igniton computer from a 16v also the eight valve one is diffrent.as for the idle you need to make sure all the idle and full throttle switches are working properly you must switch throttle boddies or plug the hole and make minute adjustments on the throttle stop to get the right duty cycle on the i.a.s.refer to a manuel for intructions if you dont know how.oh yea double check your cam timing too.next use a multi-meter to set the proper amount of voltage at the eha it should be 10 milliamps if not adjust the fuel mixture 1/8 at a time and let it stabilize and recheck the reading.double check ignition timing and recheck all your connections manifold presure signal to ecu and firing order also.all this can be done and set in less than an hour good luck paul

Posted on Feb 19, 2000, 6:38 PM
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Funny as h311
by vw16v@020.co.uk
Ok you all must see this site

this is for you budget like dragers like myself hahahaha

I also recently found a serious site with a 10.49 corrado running a 1.8T motor first setup i seen
I will post the site if i can find it again

Posted on Feb 19, 2000, 1:06 AM
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the fastest corrado vr6 in the world is in puerto rico
by migvr6
it on this site http://go.to/puertorico
goto import fwd.he run 10.56 @142mph.it worlds fastest full body fwd vw.there not much info on the car i just know it has fiber glass front end and ithas custom intake and run on methanole.from what my pr friends tell me.i hear it run in the high nine sec 1/4 and he run 150mph 1/4 so it makeing lots hp. but i cant prove it yet . i get more info.lata

Posted on Feb 19, 2000, 3:25 AM
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1.8T Engine Mounts
by Patrick Rea
Does anyone know the measurements for the mount centers? I have a new project that I am working on for a friend, mid-engined RWD buggy, but I need to know the mounting centers so I can include it in the CAD files for the cage fabricators.

Posted on Feb 18, 2000, 11:54 PM
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