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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2004 1:51 am 
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help!!! no boost?
by vlksdragon
ok, i just finished installing my bae turbo on my 1.8JH. Everything starts and runs ok, but I haven't driven it yet because I still have to finish the brakes. I hooked a boost gauge up to the intake manifold, and I show vacuum at idle. But when I open the throttle, there is even more vacuum. Now, there is supposed to positive manifold pressure when I rev the motor, right?
The motor seems to run fine, so why does the needle on the boost gauge alway stay on the left side?


Posted on Feb 18, 2000, 11:00 PM
from IP address 209.63.224.190





Everythings fine
by Dolemite
The motor needs load to produce boost,You'll have plenty when the car's on the road.

Posted on Feb 19, 2000, 5:02 AM
from IP address 209.204.90.105





why?
by vlksdragon

that sounds good to me, but why does the motor need load to produce boost? Not doubting you, but I would just like to know how that works...thanks!


Posted on Feb 23, 2000, 1:18 PM
from IP address 208.44.88.238





because....
by DannyBoy
You produce no or low boost when you rev your engine when your car is not moving.. So when your sitting in your driveway and reving it to max rpm, you see no boost right? Well don't forget that when there is no load on your engine it only take a fine amout of air to make that engine rev-up quickly. When your on the street and you floor the pedal, your opening your throttlebody fully and more are is required to make the engine GO at lower rpm..
I have no idea if i just made any sense, heheh.
Basically your engine is a pump.. the more are you feed into it the more gasses will be discarded from your exhaust ports...thus spinning the turbo.

You do have a oil-cool line coing to your turbo right???

DAN

Posted on Feb 23, 2000, 6:04 PM
from IP address 216.154.51.224





where to mount feed for boost gauge?
by vlksdragon
So where is the best place to connect the line for a boost gauge on a 1.8JH motor? Straight into the intake manifold?


Posted on Feb 18, 2000, 2:47 PM
from IP address 208.44.88.238





boost gauge.
by DannyBoy
Every Boost gauge installation I've ever seen has been mounted on the intake manifold.... As long as it's not in the direct flow path of the higher charge flowing area's. So anyware behind the T-body in the intake side.

Thats what I have seen and read... I'll be doing the same thing.

DAN

Posted on Feb 18, 2000, 4:23 PM
from IP address 216.154.51.222





anyone play with a diesel vanagon tranny yet? mummn rwd rabbit?
by deo read
hey the diesel vanagons used a 4spd that the watercooled engines can bolt up to..the shift linkage would run up to about the stock shifter location on a rabbit, its a cable clutch and the engine sits behind the rearwheel..WEIGHT TRANSFER
Wheeloe machine mummn..it might be real scary to drive on the street but ..you could always for the tractor pull style weigh rack up front hillfolk style.. i may experiment with this stet up soon as i found a donor for the whoel rear clip from the diesel vanagon..i bet the diesel tranny has real low ring and pinion ratio too...especially to move those tanks..what does everyone think? mummn?
later crazy \x/ HILLFOLK style!

Posted on Feb 18, 2000, 9:23 AM
from IP address 207.204.249.91





Drop compression?
by DannyBoy
How effective is it to use 2 head-gaskets to drop the compression??? Has anyone here done this before?
From what I hear people say the one piece copper headgasket is far superior to using 2 stock gaskets because of the combustion blow out...

i'm planning to run a low boost setup....with my 16v-2.0L, any sugg's?
Has anyone used one of the two methods, and with what results??

DAN

Posted on Feb 18, 2000, 4:14 AM
from IP address 154.5.1.17





gaskets
by vw16v@020.co.uk
ams sells and i assume uses the 2 gasket setup for the 16v turbo kit they sold also a spacer is used which they still sell for like 85 they didnt report any problems...EIP sells cooper setups in either stock thickness or for lower comp that is i think 129 and comes with wire rings,etc


Posted on Feb 19, 2000, 12:49 AM
from IP address 216.214.82.148





Fuck 'em all go to the scource
by Dolemite
http://headgasket.com/

Posted on Feb 19, 2000, 4:59 AM
from IP address 209.204.90.105





fuck em all..........do it right!
by Steve G
Although using a copper spacer is a cheap way of lowering you compression it is not a professional way of doing it. The best way of doing it would be to spend some money on custom pistons or you could shave the O.E pistons or lower your rod length to 141mm (new Mk IV 4cyl). If you want a 100K mile turbo motor for your daliy driver get the custom pistons. If this is for a grenade race motor then use the copper spacer and replace when ever you tear it down.

Steve G



Posted on Feb 21, 2000, 8:23 PM
from IP address 205.188.197.189





Nigga Please
by Dolemite
>>Although using a copper spacer is a cheap way of lowering you compression it is not a professional way of doing it. The best way of doing it would be to spend some money on custom pistons or you could shave the O.E pistons or lower your rod length to 141mm (new Mk IV 4cyl). If you want a 100K mile turbo motor for your daliy driver get the custom pistons.<<

Had I listened to people like this I wouldn't have what I have now.....There are alot of different ways to do things some are ok some are not,In this case and point copper headgaskets can and do serve their purposes,While it hasn't been in the car long enough to have 100k mi I can tell you that although the mi. on the motor is unknown it runs extremely well and hard,And I have no quirees about driving it 100 or so miles away and racing it or otherwise just flogging the hell out of it knowing it is my only way home and my only way to work to pay for that home.Let me know when I have a problem........And then I'll try to afford to do it "right" but until then I'll be at the front of the pack with all the "wrong" parts.As far as the "proffesional way of doing it is concerned,I do recall AMS selling a nice syste that utilized a copper headgasket,Also their are countless "tuners" out there that tell you "Yeah Yeah you gotta do it the "right" way or someday something may go wrong....The "right" way will usually be more than most people can afford leading people to believe they can't afford to go fast,So they go the "All sho no go" route instead.For less than it costs to uild a show car you can build a car, not exactly the "right" way but one that will blow the doors off of many.Besides the TUNING is what needs to be "right" not the parts that can "withstand detonation"!!!!Anyway I got WAY off topic......I'm outta here
Dolemite

Posted on Feb 23, 2000, 2:18 PM
from IP address 209.204.69.194





YEs I agree..
by DannyBoy
I understand that buying or having my pistons shaved is more durable than just a larger headgasket or two. Then again Thinking about Dolmite's car running sock compression in a 16V is quite an amazing feat of tunning...

True, my funds for this turbo upgrade are limited.
But For me it's eighther have a quick VW that can get wrecked by Hondas with turbo or NOS... or spend a few bucks on a budget system that can give me a few more ponies to keep up with the heavy modifed Honda/acura's...

So from what I know "the mosr money you spend,,,does not really mean thats better."

Well I'm still going to give the turbo idea a shot!!! I can always go back to my default engine setup,,, 14.9 1/4 mile isn't that bad then,.. but i hate it when i see SO MANY honda's in the faster times...

Thanx for the info guys..

DAN

Posted on Feb 23, 2000, 5:58 PM
from IP address 216.154.51.224





Untitled
by Steve G
As I said "The best way of doing it". That is what the reply was about. I understand that not everyone, my self included, can afford to buy the correct pistons. Tuning companys sell copper spacers because they are inexpensive fixes for compresion drop. These companys, like AMS, put together INEXPENSIVE systems. Adding another $700 of pistons and another $300 in labor to install etc. This would not help their chances of selling these kits now would it? ALL businesses CUT CORNERS to sell the product, that is well known truth! And as for justin using 10 to 1 compresion, that IS a tuning feat........but I suspect that he will lower the compresion, with a copper spacer, to gain back the timing and boost he has given up to a point, dont want to loose bottom end and spool up speed. If you are about "helping the VW crowd" then tell people the best possible way AND/OR your own solution. Don't make it so one sided. Is There any other way, well put Justin " I have no quirees about driving it 100 or so miles away and racing it or otherwise just flogging the hell out of it knowing it is my only way home" someone should sell this to VW as an advertisement slogan.

Steve G

Posted on Feb 23, 2000, 10:55 PM
from IP address 152.163.204.16





Actually
by Dolemite
I did choose to lower the compression ratio a little bit on my motor so I could run more boost on pump gas,But for a while I did have 10:1 and Paul still does and proboly always will.Remember I am only grasshopper....Paul....Sensi
Dolemite

Posted on Feb 24, 2000, 6:17 PM
from IP address 209.204.91.109





Engine
by Steve G
Good stuff! I wish you all the best with your project and Paul with his.

Steve

Posted on Feb 24, 2000, 7:01 PM
from IP address 205.188.197.156





anyone used cryo gears on vr6 tranny o2a
by migvr6
i have a2 jetta with vr6 conversion running 12sec1/4.any way i ripped all the teeth of second on one tranny and dystroyed stock diff on other.last year i ran with welded diff.but didnt get to many runs at the track.i run best 12.10@115mph , vr6 with je forged stock compresion pistions direct port sportsman fogger.and i run from 100 to 150 shot.i have some picks of my nos set up if u email me i can send.my friend also run s black a3 jetta vr6 turbo that run mid 12 also i can send u pic`s of his car 2.were from queens nyc are.hope to see more vw at englishtown and atco.RACING.laterZ

Posted on Feb 18, 2000, 4:02 AM
from IP address 152.167.124.93





WTB Pistons
by James
Hey I am looking for pistons for my rocco. I have decided to add a 2.0 to the equation. Anyone know sources for pistons that will keep 8.5:1 compression and perhaps be larger bore? I am not looking to spend *a lot* on these either so keep that in mind.

I know it won't be cheap, but within reason is what I am looking for. (no hand made by corky bell $5000 each setups) haha.

Anyway, tell me some good sources.
Thanks for your input.
James

Posted on Feb 17, 2000, 11:07 PM
from IP address 209.134.132.15





pistons
by vw16v@020.co.uk
jepistons.com
they range near 400
also for super cheap cast pistons for a 2L and use dual head gasket,etc for lower comp
but this way is not great route

Posted on Feb 18, 2000, 1:42 AM
from IP address 216.214.82.10





pistons etc
by deo read
supposedly you can get wiesco pistons forged fro like $325 a set etc for vws..hope that helps..
thats my plan for new slugs..
hillfolk!



Posted on Feb 18, 2000, 11:22 AM
from IP address 207.204.249.91





Suspension and drivetrain
by vw16v@020.co.uk
First I would like to post some info if anyone is making big horse power or plans to some useful links for parts

Clutchmasters.com
Makes stage 5 puck style clutchs at somewhat reasonable prices 350 for 16v w/ pressure plate and bearing

IMPO 215-942-9866
The only make vr6 chromoly cv joints but told me they will make others
for my 16v they said less than 200

eiptuning.com
they have chromoly driveshafts for 599 a pair for 16v but are they still having customer problems?
Anyone know if you can have local place make these for you?Or does EIP import these from germany?

///////////////////////////////////////
Next is I am looking for suspension advice
I have not started to research this yet
I am currently running Neuspeed sport with koni adj. shocks and a front tie bar

I was thinking on running ground control like adj. spring perches to bring the front end down an inch or two any advice on this would be appreciated and
if anyone has spring advice and shock settings
I thought ran full stiff at all corners but someone said run the rear stiff and the front sloppy which made no sense to me....
Thanks for everyones time sorry fo rth LARGE post!


Posted on Feb 17, 2000, 10:12 PM
from IP address 208.40.11.78





vacuum advance on turbo
by vlksdragon
ok, I'm putting a BAE turbo (I know, I know, it's all I can afford) on a 1.8JH motor with CIS. My question lies with the vacuum advance and vacuum retard lines for the disty. Should I leave the advance and retard lines? If so, how will the vacuum diaphram on the dist react to positive pressure from the throttle body?

Posted on Feb 17, 2000, 6:47 PM
from IP address 208.44.88.238





Vacuum Advanced....
by DannyBoy
I don't think you'll have a problem if you have the vacume line going to the tube that enters the intake side of the turbo... Because it's sucking not pushing right?

I'm going to do a simular turbo upgrade on my 16v....

Let me know how things go!!!

Dan

Posted on Feb 17, 2000, 7:15 PM
from IP address 216.154.51.153





G60 or Motronic for 16V turbo
by Ragtop78
I have come to the decision phase of my 16V turbo project. I have access to both a 91 GTI motronic setup and a G60 setup so I need to decide which one to use.

I don't see that the motronic can handle positive manifold pressure as well as the G60 but the G60 means having to fabricate a fuel rail and scrounge up a beefier than stock fuel pressure regulator.

Some of you guys have done the G60 setup so can someone offer a little advice?

Thanks

Posted on Feb 17, 2000, 3:30 PM
from IP address 207.231.93.25





fuel injection
by paul
well you seem to come to cross road when you need to step up to the plate.You never mentioned what kinda of horsepower you are looking for?neither system is a geat choice both have alot of short comings.first the 8v g60 or any 8v engine has completly diffrent needs than a 16v very diffrent so unless you want to spend alot of money on dyno time and someone to custom burn you a chip,stay away.making the plumbing and fuel rail is actually the least of your worries when its comes to turbo charging 16vs.good engine management like sds or tec2 will give you all the flexibilty to tune almost any engine combination.so if your serious then plan on spending about 1500 to 1750$ on f.i.

Posted on Feb 17, 2000, 5:13 PM
from IP address 152.163.206.194





fuel injection
by Ragtop78
Ok, I am building a 16V turbo with the following specs:
1.8 16V Scirocco head
95 Golf ABA block
AMS turbo manifold
Mitsubishi TD04 family turbo from 2000 Saab 9.5
Modified Audi 5K intercooler

My Horsepower expectations are in the 225-250 range.

I was gonna use the 91 GTI motronic system....but that's old news. Then the idea of a G60 system came to mind. But, I hear that it only adjust fuel and spark dependant upon manifold pressure and temp sender input....so, maybe that's not so good. I can't afford the Electromotive or Haltech or SDS system at this time so I need another option.

One of my European friends suggested the system from a Saab 2.3 turbo from 91-92 because that system uses a Mass AirFlow Sensor and adjusts automatically up to the requirements of a 250HP motor. After 250 HP it needs only the addition of larger injectors.

Thanks

Posted on Feb 17, 2000, 5:26 PM
from IP address 207.231.93.25





Brup Brup Brup Brup Brup Brup Brup Brup
by Dolemite
>>One of my European friends suggested the system from a Saab 2.3 turbo from 91-92 because that system uses a Mass AirFlow Sensor and adjusts automatically up to the requirements of a 250HP motor. After 250 HP it needs only the addition of larger injectors.<<

Would you rather be shot or stabbed?
If you're gonna put it like that and try to choose the lesser of 2 evils...The G60 engine management is gonna be the way to go,As a speed density system is far supirior to a Mass Airflow sensor.But you're gonna need a little bigger inj for that hp.Or maybe that set-up with an additional inj set-up would be affordable,I know SDS makes one that looks decent,I'd like to try it on SOMETHING someday.For the hp your looking to make you could probably rig up something,Just take a look at some of the low buck puerto rican cars.....If that's what you want......Just be prepared to make some ashtray's getting it set-up if you aren't careful. (Busted pistons)
Dolemite


Posted on Feb 17, 2000, 5:39 PM
from IP address 209.204.69.98





Untitled
by vw16v@020.co.uk
well for electronics in the usa any engine managment system / DFI will be at lowest 870 dollars which is the accell dfi unit whichi seems to be popular and for ignition the msd 6a is 130
the cheapest route to go is www.perfectpower.co.za
they are based in s. africa the systems available have more than enough options and the prices sits at 600 us dollars or lower the reason for this is the currency converion rate and the guys that work there speak english so no problems there..
Let me know if you or anyone else goes that route
I havnt decided what system I am gonna run yet but they are on my list..Anyone else have overseas links please post them..

Posted on Feb 17, 2000, 10:00 PM
from IP address 208.40.11.78





DFI
by Shawn M.
I hope you don't think you will get everything for DFI for $870. By the time you get the Calmap software and link cable and all the sensors you will be over the 1100 mark.
Shawn

Posted on Feb 18, 2000, 1:45 PM
from IP address 205.188.197.56





updates
by Paul
The red rabbit on the page is mine and as for uprgrades:let me first start off with the current setup is basically the same street setup I ran in 98 so this year the cars getting,competition turbocharger and wastegate a built bottem end and some head work and eventually custom turbo cams.also a 100 pound diet for the car as well.I am hoping to break into the 10`s this year.trying to scape up enough $ for bigger slicks and wheelie bars too.see you at the track..

Posted on Feb 16, 2000, 8:31 PM
from IP address 152.163.207.178





Poppin' wheelies
by James
Excuse my ignorance, but why do you need a wheelie bar for a front drive front engine Rabbit?

I would think that the back wheels are the "wheelie bar"?

Just curious.

Posted on Feb 17, 2000, 11:00 PM
from IP address 209.134.132.15





Traction
by Dolemite
Whellie bars help combat weight transfer which is a FWD car's worst enemy,Go to any import race and you'll see many front wheel drive cars utilizing them these day's.In fact it brought the Honda camp from 10's to 9's.....I think that the FWD community is refering to them as traction bars more than wheelie bars,But it's the same thing.People can talk trash if they want but i'll show up in the short times and show up even more at the end of the track.
Dolemite

Posted on Feb 18, 2000, 12:25 AM
from IP address 209.204.89.127


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